With love for the sport of surfing:
Surfers only ride a wave for an average time of six seconds, and the waves of their lives only happen from time to time. But in this sport, it's rare to meet someone who quit surfing because he or she didn't enjoy the feeling of walking on water. Surfers have more fair surf sessions on average than they do epic moments in crystal clear waves. The best rides of their lives come along only once in a while.